Dholavira Traverses: Maintaining Life in Harsh Environments

Dholavira Unveiled: Getting There by Public Transport!
 

"I will put you on the bus to Dholavira. My supply of Pau (bread) goes in the same bus" said the street vendor who we asked about the whereabouts of the bus to the site.

 

The idea of visiting a Harappan city is always exciting, and this was my second after Lothal. Opting for public transport, I took a train from Ahmedabad, followed by a shared taxi from Samakhiali to Rapar. Finally, a private bus in the morning to Dholavira village. The journey unfolded through a remote landscape, where Kikar trees stood resilient but there were traces of agriculture around the Narmada canal. As the bus traversed village after village, it became evident that this ride was more than just a commute—it was a vital connection for students returning from college, villagers transporting their market purchases, families reuniting, and countless others navigating their daily lives.

                                                           

Traveling by Private Bus: From Rapar to Dholavira & Beyond    Image/@purna,repaircafe

The villagers, lean and dressed in traditional attire—women in vibrant Chaniya Choli and men in dhoti and phento —reflected the deep-rooted culture of the region. The driver, preoccupied with collecting fares, had little time to assist passengers, but a group of young women, very kindly took it upon themselves to guide me. Ensuring I got off at the right location. Their warmth and attentiveness made the journey even more memorable.

                                          

Traditional Dresses on Display for Tourists to Wear and Capture Memories  

Image/@purna,repaircafe

My host picked me up from the location on an old rundown motor cycle, and I was welcomed by a warm and hospitable family who provided us with a homestay. The drinking water was salty—something we city dwellers aren't accustomed to. We were served a nourishing meal of wheat roti, rice, baigan ki sabzi and chaas. It’s worth noting that access to food, toilets, and potable water can be challenging in this region, so we had come prepared with our own stash of dry fruits and bottles full of water. The village homestay offered the best amenities—English toilet, ample water, a clean room, and a staple meal of bajra with freshly churned butter and chaas. This was world-class hospitality in Dholavira village, not the flashy and super-expensive tent city.

                                                         

A Village Landscape Where Cattle Rearing is a Way of Life    Image/@purna,repaircafe

We borrowed a local two-wheeler and set off to explore the Harappan city. It was a mixed feeling—the site was vast, scattered, and not easy to comprehend at first glance. Though there was a museum which showed a short video, they didn’t provide enough context to fully grasp the significance of the ruins. Having visited the site twice, I was able to confirm my understanding that this civilization once thrived right on the banks of the Arabian Sea, which is now the Rann of Kutch. Even Lothal was part of this extensive network. The dwellers of this ancient civilization were remarkable engineers, constructing vast and sophisticated water infrastructure to sustain life in this desertic environment.

Dholavira: Showcasing a Vast Ancient Water Infrastructure  Image/@purna,repaircafe

The highest part of the Dholavira site, The citadel   Image/@himadri-urbanist

The water structures to ensure water in the Citadel.
These are deep wells dug into the groups with steps alongside to reach the water inside.
Water channels from the surrounding area also empty into these wells.  Image/@himadri-urbanist

Cascading water tanks flanking the eastern side    Image/@himadri-urbanist

Cascading water tanks flanking the eastern side, notice the natural stone left in the tank.
It would be visible when the water is filled in the tank..   Image/@himadri-urbanist

Natural stone allowed to remain at the bottom of the cascading tank on eastern flank   Image/@himadri-urbanist

View of the Citadel, beyond the cascading tanks      Image/@himadri-urbanist

View showing proximity to the Rann from lower city.This was earlier the connection to the Arabian sea for the city of Dholavira.  Image/@himadri-urbanist

Staying in the village house was an eye-opening experience. The inhabitants shared that this region is located in a high seismic zone, experiencing frequent earthquakes. Additionally, termite infestations pose a major challenge to traditional houses. Water had to be purchased from tankers, though electricity was available in the village.

Dholavira Village Homestay: Rustic and Close to Nature  Image/@himadri-urbanist

I spotted a Ayushman Arogya Mandir and a distant school, but even locating a kirana (grocery)shop was difficult. The women spent their time managing household chores, stitching godadi or gudri (quilted blankets), and doing intricate embroidery work. Despite these challenges, the environment was pristine, untouched by pollution. In fact, amidst the stillness of the landscape, I even spotted a snake.

Exploring Nearby Attractions: Fossil Park & a Glimpse of the Rann of Kutch     Image/@himadri-urbanist

 
During our conversation, they shared that they had lost their agricultural lands to the Harappan city excavation, and their case remains subjudice. They had demanded land in exchange, but instead, they were offered low compensation. Life in the village is tough, with low incomes and minimal infrastructure. However, some villagers have found work as guides at the UNESCO site. While tourism holds promise, it needs stronger support from the government and UNESCO to develop sustainably and benefit the local community.

 
According to the locals, Dhora means white, and Vira (from Virangana ) means a well, which is why the place is named Dhoravira. As we left the village, we drove down the newly constructed 'road to heaven', reaching a place called Khavda in a old, broken-down Maruti car. Our gracious driver, a villager, made a stop in the Rann so we could take pictures. He even shared tips on capturing the best shots, making the journey more memorable. Rapar and Khavda serve as key junctions to reach Dholavira on the east and West respectively. Each with a well-connected transport network to make the journey to the district headquarters at Bhuj. They are also significant centers for Ajrakh, the traditional art of block printing, a craft deeply embedded in the region’s cultural heritage.

Mesmerizing Rann: A Road to Heaven Through the White Expanse    Image/@himadri-urbanist

The White Rann in west leaves a deep & profound impression, much like the Himalayas in the north…
 

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