Dholavira Traverses: Maintaining Life in Harsh Environments- Part 2

 

Exploring Bhuj by Walk & Auto

"Ajrakhpur is a new village, developed by the rehabilitation program of the government, post the earthquake of 2001" says Dr Ishmailbhai Khatri, one of the doyens of the Khatri community known for Ajrakh prints.

Road to Heaven     Image/@purna,repaircafe

Khavda is home to Muslim villages, where the traditional attire shifts—men donning Panthani outfits. We managed to find a Maruti Eeco share taxi to Bhuj, though the driver crammed four of us into a middle seat meant for three. Along the way, we found ourselves in a spirited debate with a businessman over topics like Adani, wealth tax, GST, and solar energy. At one point, someone in the front turned around and curiously asked if any of us worked for Adani. In perfect unison, we all replied, “No.”The journey through the rough, dry, and sandy landscape felt long, but soon, we arrived in Bhuj, carrying with us the echoes of our roadside discussions.

Women Unwinding in the Shade     Image/@purna,repaircafe

Now, we were back in a city with all the amenities around us—a welcome relief. We checked into the royal Sharad Baug Homestay, a place steeped in history. Bhuj is centered around the serene Hamirsar Lake, and we took a leisurely walk along its banks before exploring the old city, soaking in its rich heritage. The next day, we set out to visit Ajrakhpur and Bhujodi, the two villages well known for their exquisite crafts and textile traditions. Later that day, we took an auto with Sajid Bhai, our driver, to Khadya Dhro, which is often described as the 'Grand Canyon' of India, about 30 km from the city of Bhuj. The journey took us through well-developed villages with clean, organized lanes, a refreshing sight.

Serene View of Hamirsar Lake                      Image/@purna,repaircafe

However, despite reaching on time, we couldn’t visit the site. The last-mile for all wheel drive taxi negotiation fell through, and our auto couldn’t handle the muddy terrain. Determined, we set off on foot toward the canyon but somewhere along the way, we lost our path. Eventually, we had to turn back, leaving the adventure unfinished—one for another day? The terrain lacked road signs and travel directions, making navigation tricky. Locals insisted it was a single road and that getting lost was impossible, but we suspected that.

A nice walk way around the lake         Image/@purna,repaircafe

Sajid was determined to at least find semblance of Khadiya Droh the landscape near Bhuj. So we ventured toward another site in the city. As we arrived, we noticed wedding photographers flocking to the spot. Sajid then led us along the Ganga River, through the ravines and rugged mountain terrain. He reminisced about a time when this place was pristine, the river ran clean, and he played cricket in the nearby grounds. But now, real estate encroachments were slowly destroying the landscape. The rapid urbanization of the city was taking a toll on its environment. As we made our way past towering malls, we finally reached Sharad Baug Homestay.

Wedding Photography in the Canyons                  Image/@purna,repaircafe

At the homestay, we met some interesting guests, one of whom was —a businessman with a passion for discovering great food. His travels stories always revolved around culinary experiences, a fact he proudly announced to us. Another guest was a non-resident Gujarati who had been brought up and lived in France. He was visiting his ancestral village in the Saurashtra region, hoping to find someone who still remembered his family history.

Our journey ended here, leaving us with the dream of another adventure. The train to Bhuj looked old from the outside, but inside, it had undergone a thorough overhaul. The Indian-style toilet had been revamped—its layout had changed, the pot repositioned, and an exhaust fan installed. The entire space felt more organized and cleaner. Even the metal railings for climbing to the upper berths had been braided, ensuring a better grip and preventing feet from slipping.

Majestic View of the Ganga River in Bhuj                             Image/@purna,repaircafe

There are visuals etched in my memory—like that morning from the train when I saw a village shrouded in darkness. The kitchens were aglow with the warmth of fire, flickering like quiet beacons as the day’s first stirrings began. Yet, the dawn had not yet broken, and the world still lingered in the embrace of night.